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Hard Bar Sport, M1/M2 Hard Core Hardtop, M2 Sport and Xtreme Installation Instructions
1) PUT THE TOP DOWN!
2) REMOVE THE TRIM PANELS COVERING THE SEAT BELT TOWERS. (THESE
PIECES ARE CALLED QUARTER TRIM BY MAZDA.)
3) PUT THE TOP UP - Remove the carpet from the fuel tank cover (the silver cover that makes up the front part of the package shelf) and fold it back. A claw hammer is a good tool for removing the plastic carpet fasteners. Lower the top. (Pre '99 leave the window zipped in, be careful not to crease the window) Some sort of cover for the window is not a bad idea. Remove the large silver metal fuel tank cover that makes up the front part of the package shelf by removing the several bolts w/ 10mm heads that hold it in place and releasing any wire loom fasteners. Lift the cover up and out of the car.
4) REMOVE THE LOWER SEAT BELT REEL BOLTS (16mm pre'94 17mm '94 and later) AND SPACERS. Also remove seat belt reel alignment screw at the top of the mounting bracket (small screw w/ 10mm head). Pull the complete assembly forward and bend the alignment tab down flat, this will allow the reel to tilt inward for better seat belt alignment and retraction after the bar is installed. GO TO SEAT BELT REEL & GUIDE INSTRUCTIONS
5) GO GET SOME HELP!
6) Y'ALL SET THE BAR IN THE CAR - BE CAREFUL The rear brace foot plates will just fit under the front edge of the package tray, work the rear braces past the several wiring harnesses in this area being careful not to mess up any of the wiring. Also watch the front mounting plates, they will be very close to the seat backs at this point. The horizontal mounting plates half way up the bar should fit over the top of the seat belt tower and align with the bolt hole that held the shoulder harness guide. The lower mounting points align (hopefully) with the lower seat belt reel bolt holes. The roll bar plates fit against the seat belt reels which stay in their original location but do not use the original spacers. (FIG# 1) Once the bar and those rascally seat belt reels are in position start but do not completely tighten the seat belt reel mounting plate bolts from the hardware kit, make sure that your seat belts are on the inside of the roll bar.
7) JACK UP THE REAR OF THE CAR AND SUPPORT WITH STURDY JACK STANDS - Remove the wheels and plastic splash panels from the front of the inner fenders. (pre 99 - 4 bolts w/ 10mm heads / M2 - 4 plastic fasteners w/ Phillips heads)
8) GET THE DRILL AND SAFETY GLASSES - Locate the position for
the rear back-up plates by drilling the first hole down from the top.
It's tight in this area, an angle drill is helpful but not absolutely
necessary to do these holes. Once you get the first hole drilled, bolt
the back-up plate in place, the others can be done from under the car
using the back-up plate as a template. (FIG#
6) The nuts closest to the frame rail do not use washers because of
their proximity to the rail. (FIG#
9) Check convertible top clearance - it may be necessary to adjust the top frame to allow clearance when the top is lowered and raised especially with the covered bars. Raise the top slowly checking clearance as the hinge points come up past the bar. If the hinge points rub loosen the (3) bolts with 12mm heads behind either doorjamb that hold the top frame. Pull the frame as far to the rear as possible, you might need to lift the top slightly to allow more movement. Tighten the bolts while holding pressure on the top and recheck clearance. See convertible top adjustment page.
10) TRIM THE FUEL TANK COVER - On the pre 99's it's a small notch
at the rear corners.
11) CUT QUARTER TRIM PANELS - This will only hurt a little. In
order to reinstall the trim panels they have to be cut into two pieces,
it's not really all that bad, it just takes some time to do it right.
I use a small air powered reciprocating saw to do the dirty work, but
a hacksaw or a pair of aviation snips (tin snips) will do just fine. It's
fairly evident as to where the cut needs to be made, just cut the panel
and trim to fit up to the roll bar, but maybe (FIG#
4b) will help to make things easier. A belt sander gives a nice straight
finished edge but a large fairly coarse (wood type) file will suffice.
Take several small cuts to get a good fit, you can always take more off
but it's hard to put back. In addition to the vertical cut, a semicircular
area will have to be removed along the outer top area of the panel to
fit up to the bar. (FIG# 4a)
12) If you are installing a HARD CORE HARDTOP version you will need to grind, sand or file off the rear edge of the hard top side latch hook that mounts to the body just behind the door jamb. Hold the latch hook up to the bar and mark it with a grease pencil. The bar sits at a slight angle requiring more material to be removed on the lower rear edge and tapering toward the top.
13) REINSTALL THE REMAINING PARTS - You will have some leftovers: seat belt reel spacers, bolts and screws, shoulder harness guide trim, bolts and spacers.
January 11, 2016 0:47 AM