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M3 Hard Bar Installation Instructions
1) Unsnap and remove front hoop covers then remove the phillips head screws holding the rear hoop covers.
2) Pull the center to release and remove the reusable plastic rivet fasteners that hold the shoulder harness guide covers. Pull forward on the front and straight up on the top to release. Slide the belt out through the provided slot and remove the cover.
3) Pull up on the door seal protectors, unsnap and remove.
4) There are some more of the plastic rivets holding the quarter trim on either side behind the seats. Remove the fasteners to free the panel.
5) Pull down on the top release handle and remove it. Pull up on the windblocker and remove it also. This one is tight and can be a little stubborn.
6) Pull up on the panel at the rear of the console. This one can be difficult also, pull vertically with a slight twist to get it loose. Be careful the clips are tight and easy to break.
7) Remove the fasteners from the large plastic bulkhead behind the seats, separate the front from the rear at the top, rotate forward, push back just behind the console to allow the tab that slides under the console to clear and remove from car.
8) If you have speakers, unplug and remove them together with the bracket by removing the 3 nuts w/ 10mm hex heads.
9) Remove the top latch from the cross brace by removing the 2 bolts w/ 10mm hex heads.
10) Loosen the wiring harness clips and seat belt guides. Unbolt and remove the cross brace and hoops with the rear plastic trim still attached. Unsnap the plastic cover and remove the fasteners with a door panel tool, screwdriver or claw hammer. Save for reinstallation.
11) Set aside the long cross bar mounting bolts. Save the other fasteners as we will be using them to install the roll bar.
12) If your bar does NOT have a harness bar you will need to cut the
stock cross bar to fit the brackets on the roll bar. After the factory
cross bar is cut attach it to the roll bar using the screws supplied.
Put the cross bar in place, drill a 1/8" hole and install the screws.
13) Install the upper brace reinforcement plates as shown using the shorter stock bolts. Make sure the outer holes are aligned by threading in the outer bolts before tightening the inner. Remove the outer bolts after the inners are tightened to 25 - 30 ft/lbs.
14) Trim the flanges for the stock hoop covers from the front and rear
plastic panels flush with the top of the
15) Put the roll bar in place. Attach the bar using the stock bolts and nuts but do not tighten. Install the lower braces to the bar using the supplied 5/16" bolts w/ washers in the outer holes and the larger 3/8" bolts w/ washers in the inner holes with the bolts oriented front to back. Install the nuts on the back side, no washers are required for the self locking flange nuts. Use the stock bolts to reinstall the braces to the body. Tighten the upper bolts, side braces and rear foot plate nuts first and then tighten the forward foot plate bolts last.
16) Open an access hole large enough for your arm in the channel that runs behind the seats using a jig saw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade, or some other tool appropriate for light sheet metal cutting. Start in the preexisting factory hole and cut back toward the door as seen in the photos. Duct tape around the edges will cut down on blood loss considerably. Drill 3/8" holes into the channel. Insert the reinforcment plates with the prewelded nuts and bolt them in place to 40 ft/lbs. The sandwiching of this double walled panel adds considerably to the strength of the main hoop mounting. Once the plates are installed bend the flaps back into place and seal the crack with duct tape. This proceedure in no way compromises the structural integrity of the vehicle.
17) Reinstall the top latch (check the adjustment), speakers, large front panel, shoulder harness guide covers, quarter trim and door seal guards.
July 9, 2010 1:25 PM